Mirassou is the oldest winemaking family in the country.

Mirassou is the oldest winemaking family in the country.

David Mirassou has been in the wine business for as long as he can remember. His family was the first to bring French vines to California, and he grew up in the vineyards. It’s no wonder that pairing wine with food comes easy to him.

That’s why I was excited to have a chance to chat with him a few weeks ago when Tammy and I joined fellow bloggers at Tru for a media dinner hosted by Mirassou, celebrating the 155th anniversary of his winery.

This dinner also came on the coat tails of the meal we had with Ted Allen at Moto sponsored by Robert Mondavi Wines, Mirassou’s direct competitor. Both brands offer affordable selections (from roughly nine to 13 dollars a bottle) that are easy to find at the grocery store or at wine retailers.  It turns out, the two families are longtime friends too.  So, I was curious to see how the two tasting dinners would compare.

The food at both Moto and Tru is fantastic, and after doing some personal taste tests of my own, I’ve concluded that the wine brands are comparable for the price point.

Tru quinoa crusted scallops paired perfectly with the Mirassou chadonnay.

Tru quinoa crusted scallops paired perfectly with the Mirassou chadonnay.

From the very first bite at Tru, it was obvious that with all parts being equal, attentive pairing still makes an incredible difference. Chef Gale Gand and staff worked for months on the pairing menu we had, tweaking or creating recipes to highlight just the right flavors that would complement the Mirassou varietals we sipped. Their effort shined.

The Robert Mondavi pairings we had at Moto were not as well done — with the wine distributors simply picking wines from their line to pair with what was already on Moto’s menu.  We had been lucky enough to have wine pairings selected by Moto at past meals there, which were in a word — spectacular. So in comparison, the Robert Mondavi pairings were particularly disappointing.

So where does that leave us… the average wine buyers… who peruse grocery store aisles and select a bottle of wine just hoping it will pair with dinner? I mean none of us have the folks from Tru waiting in our kitchens at home to tweak the recipes in our cookbooks so they’ll pair just right.  We’re left to pair more sloppily, matching up what’s in the wine rack with what’s on the takeout menu.

Tru's peeky toe crab salad served with sauvignon blac.

Tru's peeky toe crab salad served with sauvignon blac.

I turned to Mirassou, the resident expert, for advice.  He said that pairing correctly comes with experience. Sure, certain wines uniformly pair better with certain foods, but recognizing and pairing the nuisances takes practice.

Often I’m inclined to leave that to the experts myself and to capitalize on their know-how when I can afford to. I said as much to Mirassou, admitting that I’m known as the “microwave queen” or a “crock pot cook” among my friends and that my kitchen is best employed as a podcasting studio.

He laughed. “Well, I had a dinner party last week and made pot roast in our crock pot,” he said with a conspiratorial smile. “Pair it with the Merlot. It really works!”

Who knows? There may be hope for me yet. And practice makes perfect.

Tru's salt-crusted cervena venison paired with merlot.

Tru's salt-crusted cervena venison paired with merlot.

Other takes on dinner:
Chicago Foodies
Gaper’s Block
What’s Cookin’ Chicago?

This was a media dinner. All food and drink were provided gratis.

Sep 272009
Ted Allen at Chicago Gourmet

Ted Allen at Chicago Gourmet

Everyone has something to say about food. Unlike religion or politics, it’s a universal topic.

Simply mention where you’ve eaten recently, or a new recipe you’ve tried, and you’ll spark a pleasant and spirited conversation in practically any social situation — amongst friends, strangers, or even celebrities.

That’s why when Tammy and I sat down to dinner last night with the Food Network’s Ted Allen, our conversation flowed as freely as the wine.

We found ourselves seated right next to Allen for dinner at Moto because Tammy has mad Internet surfing skills and an inquisitive mind – she submitted a question about how to teach beginners to pair wine with food and was one of the lucky questioners selected to dine with Allen. I was the lucky friend who got to tag along!

So, after spending the day at Chicago Gourmet, there we were, sharing an amazing meal with four other excited contest winners, their guests, a number of wine distributors, and one celebrity foodie.

We sat at a long, elegant table in a private room in the basement at Moto (which apparently will soon be transformed into to a TV studio for a new cooking show) and had a ten-course meal with Robert Mondavi Private Selection wine pairings.

It could have been an awkward situation – a group of strangers in a fancy place eating very fancy food. But it wasn’t because we had a shared love for food and wine.

By the third course, we were fast friends – oohing and ahhing over the dishes, comparing notes, and telling stories.

The third course: house-made pequin capon.

The third course: house-made pequin capon.

“Good food is of the moment,” Trade Marketing Manager for Constellation Wines Elmer Pilcher explained to me, as we chatted about our shared passion for dining. “Even when I cook at home I cook what I feel, so it’s hard to recreate exactly the same thing twice.”

Allen worked his way through the group’s questions throughout the evening, casually chatting about everything from how to select a wine from a large list to the benefits of eating organic. He set a comfortable tone, aiming to make wine approachable for everyone. And he succeeded by being approachable himself.

“You should drink what you like,” he explained. “It may not be the perfect pairing, but who cares? It’s your palate, your wine, your money.”

The convivial atmosphere was complemented in every way by the food itself. Chef Homaro Cantu’s creativity and love for flavor never fails to impress me and last night’s standouts included Gruyere and onions – a fancy French onion soup – a Cuban cigar – pork wrapped in cabbage served on sesame seed “ashes” in an ashtray—Ruben lasagna – a variation on a Ruben sandwich—and a chocolate bomb—essentially a s’more truffle set aflame.

Food really is of the moment… and last night I shared several I won’t soon forget.

Dessert at Moto.

Dessert at Moto.

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Feb 112008
The sauce is the strength of the butter-poached shrimp, but it masks the dish.

The sauce is the strength of the butter-poached shrimp, but it masks the dish.

Tammy and I were so excited about Otom, Moto’s sister restaurant, that we went there right when it opened last summer. Then we went again to see how Otom evolved. Did the food and menu live up to our expectations? Listen in and find out.

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Show Notes:
00:00 – 01:11 The mirror image of Moto for less?
01:12 – 02:48 Striking while the iron is hot and again later — planning our review
02:49 – 05:00 Accessibility efforts and simply impeccable service
05:01 – 08:07 The mac and cheese evolution, huge shrimp, and the Moto-influence
08:08 – 09:08 Picture and sound upgrades inspire cackling with glee
09:09 – 10:07 Honoring the meat
10:08 – 11:01 Cod and sea bass with odd pairings
11:02 – 12:43 Creativity and finding a niche with stiff competition all around
12:44 – 14:37 Dessert leftovers redeemed by Glunz
14:38 – 16:28 A little more wine appreciation
16:29 – 18:32 Ratings and sign off

Otom
951 W. Fulton Market
Chicago, IL

Bridget’s Otom Ratings:
Food Quality: 3/5
Value: 3/5
Service: 5/5
Ambiance: 4/5
Overall: 7/10

Tammy’s Otom Ratings:
Food Quality: 3/5
Value: 2/5
Service: 5/5
Ambiance: 3/5
Overall: 5/10

Average price per person: $100 will allow you to taste a little bit of everything.

The sweet potato flan is a good finisher, but we didn't clean the plate.

The sweet potato flan is a good finisher, but we didn't clean the plate.

On-line buzz about Otom:
Metromix
Yelp

We’re making our wine at Beverage Art Brewing & Winemaking.

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