A Greasy Spoon with Class?

Posted by Bridget at 9:00 am
Sep 022010
Elly's Extior

A diner is a diner, right?

Can a greasy spoon have class?  Elly’s Pancake House on Clark and North Avenue comes close. That’s because the dining space has been remodeled to be light, airy, and comfortable.  Low hanging smoke-stained tiles have been knocked out to expose high ceilings covered in silver duct work, the old carpeting is gone and replaced by a hard, clean, floor and new furniture complements this fresh look. Elly’s is a step up in comparison to its predecessors.

Inside Elly's

Inside Elly's.

The building has been a 24-hour diner for more than a decade, and during that time has changed hands three times. First it was Mitchell’s (a place I will always hold near and dear), then Micheal’s (which I loathed because no matter what I ordered there the food always ended up making me sick), and now Elly’s.

The food at Elly’s is average at best — typical diner food — and honestly you can find higher quality pancakes at the Original Pancake House.  I’ve been there for both breakfast and lunch, have sampled a variety of things on the menu from omelets to salads, and the food is sustaining but quite literally nothing to write home about. Still, Elly’s is a nice 24-hour dining option with free wi-fi (the restaurant phone number is the current pass code) that lends itself to settling in for awhile.  The service is good and friendly, and my coffee cup was never neglected. That’s a big score in my book.

Chicken salad

Chicken salad lunch.

Elly’s Pancake House
101 West North Avenue
Chicago, IL 60610-1302
(312) 643-2300
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*Note: Elly’s also has two suburban locations. See their Web site for details.

Aug 312010
Feast Chicken Club

Feast Chicken Club.

I’d been to Feast on Delaware for dinner three times out of convenience — it’s close to Michigan Avenue shopping and often easy to find a seat because it’s off the main drag. I enjoyed the wine flights and thought the service was a tad slow, but those were really my only lasting impressions. So when I found myself there for lunch on Saturday, my expectations were low.  But It turns out that lunchtime is the right time to go to Feast.

My chicken club sanadwich served with bacon, guac, and sweet potato fries was excellent, and the other salads and sandwiches the kitchen was turning out looked just as good.  The outdoor seating space is a pleasant and shady place to spend the afternoon with just the right amount of street and foot traffic to make for good people watching without being overwhelming. The frozen vodka “Feast” lemonade is also worth a sip or two. :)

I recommend paying an afternoon visit to Feast before the leaves fall.

Feast Restaurant + Bar
25 E Delaware Place
Chicago, IL 60622
(312) 337-4001
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Aug 272010
Fried Chicken

The corn flake fried chicken at Hearty's.

I love it when food ends up tasting even better than I think it will be, and recently I stumbled upon some of the best fried chicken I’ve ever tried. It’s at Hearty’s. Made with a cornflake crust that’s light and crunchy, it’s a refreshing take on the traditional recipe.

I’ve made a haphazard study of sampling fried chicken when I see it on a menu and have enjoyed it at both The Southern and Chalkboard. It’s interesting to compare and contrast each restaurant’s idea of a chicken dinner.  The Southern puts together the best meal as a whole, striking a chord with all the fixings prepared just right, and Chalkboard’s fried chicken and champagne pairing is a thing of beauty. But when it comes down to the chicken itself, Hardy’s is the winner hands down. That’s because the chicken is moist and flavorful and the breading complements it rather than drying out or dominating the dish.

Shrimp and Grits

Shrimp and grits.

Unfortunately, the side of turkey collared greens falls hopelessly short of the chicken it’s served with. There’s just no way that turkey can be what it needs to be to flavor a collared green. But the Dijon potato salad side also served was good.

My friend Jane and I liked the fried green tomato caprese starter we had, served with mozzarella and balsamic dressing.  It too was a nice and successful twist on tradition, and I’ve found myself craving it since.  The shrimp and grits, crab cake special, and mac and cheese were solid dishes as well, but nothing spectacular like the fried chicken.  Still, it was all good enough to make me want to go back and try more.

If anything was a disappointment, it was the root beer float cupcake we had for dessert.  The root beer flavored cake, filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with whipped cream and a cheery, was dry and over done. Creative? Yes. But it did nothing to impress this cupcake connoisseur.

Fried green tomatoes

Fried green tomatoes.

It’s worth mentioning that the dining space at Hearty’s is teeny tiny, so you’ll likely strike up a conversation with neighboring tables. And there is no wheelchair accessible restroom, so I had to excuse myself from the table and journey to the Starbucks on the corner between courses.  But upon my return, the food waiting for me was so tasty and fun to eat that the extra maneuvering was worth it.

Hearty
3819 N Broadway St
Chicago, IL 60613
(773) 868-9866 | Make Reservations
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