I’ve inadvertently been eating in the footsteps of Guy Fieri of late. I’ll go a treasured spot and see his cheesy-faced stencil on the wall somewhere and think, “S**t. Not again.” I thought Nana in Bridgeport would be safe, because it’s not really a diner, drive-in or dive. At least, not as I know them. That doesn’t seem to stop Guy from stretching definitions to include a restaurant in his show. After trying the food at Nana, I really can’t blame him.
The meal I had was a hodge-podge of things that my group wanted to try, and not the appetizer-entree-dessert progression that’s my usual M.O. I ended up splitting the Fried Oyster and Shrimp Po’Boy with duck fast roasted potatoes three ways, which was good considering how large this dish was. It was excellent, too — a near perfect balance of fried seafood and perky tomatoes and greens balanced on a toasted baguette. The remoulade added the right kick of heat at the end. I found the potatoes to be a bit greasy, but very flavorful.
We also got a large order of the mac and cheese with healthy chunks of maple-cured bacon and topped with crispy biscuit crumbs. Did someone say comfort food? It’s not the sort of mac and cheese that will haunt my dreams, but I would order it again on a return visit. The medley of sides we ordered where equally good — the collared greens, whipped acorn squash and house-made chips were all satisfying. If you are looking for the perfect side dish, consider the buttermilk battered onion rings. I don’t normally go for fried food, but these were light and lovely.
Thinking about it, the fried, Fieri-endorsed bits were what I enjoyed best at Nana. Their organic menu calls out to me, though, and I’ll need to go back for breakfast. Next time, I’ll sit with my back to Guy’s stencil.
3267 S Halsted Street
Chicago, IL 60608