Feelin’ French: A Visit to LM

Dining Room

The dining room is small but comfy.

LM is what a bistro should be. Its dining room is intimate and friendly, its staff knowledgeable and attentive, and its food strikes the right chord. Sandwiched between the bars and larger restaurants on Lincoln Avenue, LM is across the street from the Old Town School of Folk Music where the restaurant Tallulah used to be.

The interior looks quite different from what we remembered, decorated in warm oranges and earthy tones, but the layout of the restaurant is the same.  It’s a tight squeeze between tables — in fact while we were there, two empty wine glasses were knocked to the floor as the staff rushed by — and it might feel a tad claustrophobic if the restaurant was overflowing with customers. It was fairly quiet when we went though and proved to be an excellent place to linger.

Tuna Tartar

Tuna tartar with citrus.

The food itself is worth lingering over. LM offers a three-course prix fixe menu for $35 per person that is an excellent deal, but in the end, we ordered off the menu. We started out with the tuna tartar with espellette aioli and heart of palm and a spinach salad with Saint Agur, pears and candied pecans. The tuna was particularly good — fresh with citrus undertones that our waiter articulated perfectly in advance of our order.

For our main dishes we tried the monkfish with wild mushrooms and mussels and the roasted leg of lamb served with tomato jam, chanterelles, and toasted hazelnuts. The monkfish came in a cider broth that was tasty and the lamb and its accompaniments were fantastic. The meat was juicy and tender, the tomato jam a perfect complement. The portions were right-sized too… I wasn’t hungry after finishing my meal, but I wasn’t about to pop the button on my jeans either.

Apple Tart

The apple tart is meant to share.

For dessert we shared the tarte tatin. Meant for two, its essentialy an upside down apple pie, with one of the best flaky crusts I’ve tasted in a long time. Gobbled down between sips of french press coffee, it was a worthy finish to a solid meal all around.

LM is a place you should absolutely check out. At roughly $45 per person, you can’t go wrong. It’d be a great place for a date or to catch up over a meal with a friend, but don’t plan on it for large groups.

LM Restaurant
4539 N Lincoln Ave
Chicago, IL 60625
(773) 942-7585
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